Questions for the sharpening shop: broken circular saw teeth, overheating saw blades, and more.

Vern Burke, SwiftWater Edge Tool Works

It’s that time again, time to answer questions I’ve had come in this week to the blog and the web site via Google hits!

Q. “can i use a diamond saw blade with broken teeth”

A. NO! Ok, maybe this calls for a more detailed answer :).

I have no idea why some folks don’t have that little inside voice telling them that using a physically damaged saw blade isn’t a good idea.

Aside from the fact that a diamond saw blade with a missing tooth would cut like total garbage and vibrate like crazy from being out of balance, any impact that is bad enough to break a tooth is likely to either warp the saw plate or start cracks in it, or both at the same time. Is it REALLY saving the cost of a new blade vs catching sharp shrapnel at high speed when the blade disintegrates?

Q. “why does my cicular saw blade overheat”

A. There are a number of reasons why a circular saw blade would overheat:

1. Not enough set in the teeth. Leaves the kerf too narrow and the saw plate rubs against the cut wood ends.

2. Saw blade is dull.

3. Saw blade is warped. Once again, the saw plate rubs against the cut wood ends.

4. Pitch (or other crud) buildup. Once again, the saw plate rubs against the cut wood ends.

5. Expansion slots and gullets are clogged. Heat can’t escape from the blade.

Q. What is the difference between a 2 man felling crosscut saw and a 2 man bucking crosscut saw.

A. An Eastern felling saw is a very narrow blade with lots of curve to the back (to keep the saw from getting pinched if the tree goes over backwards), usually “Climax” style handles, and usually Champion teeth. Great for dropping hardwood.

A Western style felling saw is wider with a less curved back, loop handles, and usually perforated lance teeth. Great for dropping softwood.

A Western style buck saw is the same as the Western style felling saw except for a much deeper “belly” in the blade.


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