Restored vintage tools for Christmas, 31 days! Rare Simonds “moon and star” saw.

Vern Burke, SwiftWater Edge Tool Works

Skowhegan, ME

Do you know someone who would appreciate a nice set of quality tools for Christmas? Before you head off to the big box stores to get the latest shiny junk made in China, take a look at our quality restored vintage “made in USA” tools (I’ll be featuring one or two great tools from inventory every day until Christmas!). Hand saws, crosscut saws, axes, classic woodworking tools, you don’t see these in Walmart!

I do a lot of very nice user tools but it’s rare that I get one that’s a true usable collectible! This is a spectacular 1901 Simonds #10 5 tpi rip saw. This saw features the rare early Simonds “moon and star”, both on the handle medallion and the bright fully readable blade etch. It’s unusual to find any saw of this age with this perfect an etch but with this one, unusual doesn’t describe it.

The blade on the saw has been thoroughly cleaned and sharpened, and the handle has been treated to a gorgeous old school linseed oil finish. $100.

To purchase any of the tools shown here, please email saw@swiftwatertel.com, call 207-399-7108, or visit me at any of the following locations:

Rt 201 (former Champion Glass), Topsham, ME (Tuesdays)
Arundel Flea Market, Rt 1, Arundel, ME (Fridays)
298 W Front St, Skowhegan, ME (all other days)

If you’re looking for a special tool, please drop me an email and let me know and I’ll restore one just for you!

Sharpening shop questions and answers: saw blade pitting, axe eyes, and more!

Vern Burke, SwiftWater Edge Tool Works

Skowhegan, ME

Yup, it’s that time, time to answer some of the various questions I see come in to the blog and the service website via Google and other search engines. You wanted to know, I want to show!

1. (various questions about saw blade pitting)

Clean most rusty saw blades and you’ll find that the rust is only surface rust, leaving a still smooth steel surface underneath. When rust is allowed to get out of hand and too severe, it actually eats pits into the steel. Pitting can cause a wide range of problems, everything from just being ugly to causing drag on the sides of the kerf to causing a complete structural failure of the saw blade.

As a rule, pitted small circular saw blades are an immediate throw and replace. Pitted large circular blades such as cordwood saws are up to the judgement of the saw smith, except if the teeth are actually eroded. Spots of mild pitting in an otherwise nice vintage handsaw blade are ok, all over pitting that obliterates the etch and any trace of smooth steel is a throw and replace.

2. (various questions about axe eye sizes)

Usually, picking the correct handle to fit an axe eye is just a matter of weighing the head, since replacement handle manufacturer’s spec their handles by the head weight of the axe. There are exceptions to this, such as the huge 6 pound poll axe head I have in the workshop that takes the same handle as the 3-4 pound poll axes.

The important dimension is the length of the eye (fore and aft). A properly sized handle should start off as long or slightly long than the eye so it can be cut down to fit precisely. Sometimes a handle that is slightly too short for the eye can be cross wedged with a steel wedge to take up the space, but this is an invitation to split the handle.

3. (question about M tooth crosscut saw blades)

In general, I’d avoid M tooth pattern saws for working crosscut saws (although they do make a good competition racing saw). If you’re going to be sawing your firewood with it, stick with the classic Champion or lance tooth patterns.

Tales from the saw sharpening shop: Restored vintage tools for Christmas, 33 days and counting!

Vern Burke, SwiftWater Edge Tool Works

Skowhegan, ME

Do you know someone who would appreciate a nice set of quality tools for Christmas? Before you head off to the big box stores to get the latest shiny junk made in China, take a look at our quality restored vintage “made in USA” tools (I’ll be featuring one or two great tools from inventory every day until Christmas!). Hand saws, crosscut saws, axes, classic woodworking tools, you don’t see these in Walmart!

First up is a very nice WWII vintage Disston 1 man crosscut saw. This saw is a bit unique, since I couldn’t see any sign that the blade had EVER been sharpened. The blade has been cleaned, sharpened, and set, and still has a faint Disston etch. The handle has been refinished with an old school linseed oil finish for the best protection and classic look. $75.

Second up is a great matched pair of WWII vintage Disston D-7 hand saws. This pair is the standard carpenter’s set including an 8 tpi crosscut and a matching 6 tpi rip saw. These blades are in spectacular condition with bright readable etches. The handle of the rip saw has had the top horn repaired and both handles have the old school linseed oil finish that really sets these saws apart. $60 for the pair.

To purchase any of the tools shown here, please email saw@swiftwatertel.com, call 207-399-7108, or visit me at any of the following locations:

Rt 201 (former Champion Glass), Topsham, ME (Tuesdays)
Arundel Flea Market, Rt 1, Arundel, ME (Fridays)
298 W Front St, Skowhegan, ME (all other days)

If you’re looking for a special tool, please drop me an email and let me know and I’ll restore one just for you!

Saw shop tech: choosing the right vintage axe for the job.

Vern Burke, SwiftWater Edge Tool Works
Skowhegan,ME

I carry a wide selection of restored vintage axes in my inventory at the shop and I get asked frequently how to match the axe to the customer’s job. In this post, I’ll provide a primer on matching the axe to the job.

1. Type of head.

Axes generally fall into 2 categories, poll or single bit axes, and double bit axes. This does ignore special purpose axes such as roofer’s hatchets but these special purpose ones are generally so optimized for a particular use that matching them to that specific job.

Simply put, poll axes are all around splitting and chopping axes with the capability to do some LIGHT pounding with the poll. Double bit axes, on the other hand, are intended for felling of trees. Not to say that one can’t be used for the other, but this is a general rule that it’s hard to go wrong with.

2. Axe head patterns.

There are literally dozens and dozens of vintage axe head patterns, many tied to the specific area of the country where they first originated. Up here, the Maine pattern poll and double bit axes are the most common and most popular with the old timers. On this pattern, the bits come straight out from the head, no curves.

I also have a Rockaway pattern poll axe in my inventory, as well as a Michigan pattern double bit. The Rockaway pattern has a bit that curves down deeply on the handle side. On the Michigan pattern, the bits curve both up and down slightly.

Axe patterns are usually a matter of personal preference for balance but avoid patterns with small heads and large bits, such as the Hudson Bay axe. If the head doesn’t have enough weight to make the amount of bit work, performance will be poor.

3. Bit shape.

Poll axes with thin, graceful bits (such as the Kelly Rockaway axe in my inventory) are great choppers but they make lousy splitters, since the thin bits tend to stick on the wood rather than splitting it. Poll axes with wedge profile heads and bits (such as the Maine made Snow and Neally I have on the shelf) make so so choppers but absolutely spectacular splitting axes.

4. Weight.

This is a simple one. Pick an axe heavy enough to do the job but not heavy enough to cause control problems or fatigue. If a 2 1/2 lb “boy’s axe” poll axe will do, there’s little point in getting a 4 lb full sized poll axe.

So, in summary, choose the right axe type for felling or general purpose use, pick a head profile for chopping or splitting, pick an axe with enough weight to do the job but can be swung comfortably and under control, and a pattern that’s well balanced and enough mass to the head for the size of the bit.